Showing posts with label expats. Show all posts
Showing posts with label expats. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

On River Crossing and Love of Sierra Leone: Last Days


As the water from the Sierra Leone River (yes, it’s actually called that) rushed to my feet, I realized quickly that I would not leave this experience, without some sort of trauma. The ferry had not been docked appropriately and the tides were high. So while we had just run trailing the mob of men that held our suitcases above their heads, we were now faced with treading in river water barefooted to enter the ferry in hopes of making it both dry and alive to our Brussels Flight. If this were a movie, this scene would have been filled with the type of music symphony they play when there is chaos going on and the immediate future is uncertain. Before I had the chance to protest, a young man scooped me up, slumped me over his shoulder and ran up the ramp with me. Who was I to complain; I had been sliding down the ramp while attempting to walk up with my black, Old Navy thong sandals, that apparently weren’t made for ferry catching attempts in Sierra Leone. When he put me down and extended his hand, waiting for me to pull out Leones, because “nah e tote me kam up,” I realized that I was remiss in one important factor when travelling in Sierra Leone. Ah nor been get ‘small tin,’ for gi, which translates to small thing, which are tips you give to people along the way as bribery or for general assistance. I had given all of my Leones away to my cousins figuring they would make better use of it, than I would in Panama. I imagined that he damned me all the way down, the narrow, winding, metal steps of the ferry. Even though, I gave him a remark that was laced with my general frustration of the country’s situation, I felt a deep sense of effed-up-ness; I was overwhelmed. 

---As if the last few days hadn’t been emotionally jarring enough for me just preparing to leave, there was the long a%&$^%# ride to East End, which us West Enders dread. There was the traffic where my mom and aunt complained about the lawlessness of the people. There were the liberal attempts I made to justify why there was such lawlessness and thieves. There were the memories of my mother and aunt as we passed Bishop Johnson Memorial School, where they attended. There were the comments about how poor the roads were, how they used to be able to walk around with their heels from end to end. These damn roads in modern day post-war Freetown, don’t allow for that, they grieved. They saw it and rebuked it with a sense of disgust. I saw it from the lens of a future development worker, of a liberal-minded and Western-educated, Sierra Leonean enthusiast. I saw the possibilities. But that’s that. As I write this even, I realize that my lens is different. That my mom or aunt, or many people can’t understand why I would be willing to leave all of my comforts to go and work and live in sweet Sierra Leone. I would simply tell them, it’s my journey. It’s my odyssey, and this is an affair of the heart. Our sweet Sierra Leone awaits us. If not us, then who? 


In my last days in Freetown, besides the East End experience, there was Ibrahim. Ibrahim who touched my heart in an uncanny way for someone who doesn’t say much.  Ibrahim who wore his hood from his oversized jacket to protect himself and soul from the harsh, dry Harmattan breeze. Ibrahim who never showed late up to his nighttime security guard post in his boss’ compound. Ibrahim who takes care of his two brothers after his older siblings died. Ibrahim who watches for any potential risks to the compound with his WASSCE (West African Senior Secondary School Certificate Examination) study guide in hand. Ibrahim who needs to pass this test with flying colors so that he can have any chance at providing a better life for his nephews now turned sons. Ibrahim who pays his own lesson fees for extra practice, feeds his nephews before himself, takes care of them before getting his rest and studies when he should be sleeping during the day. Ibrahim who we told to come upstairs. Ibrahim became the security guard who was afraid when summoned by his boss. A sometimes arrogant, mess-with-your-mind type of boss, but a boss who recognized the struggle, because he lived through it and never forgets where he came from type of boss. Ibrahim who didn’t know what to expect, walked up the steps and took his seat on the balcony that extended above his post. Ibrahim who answers his boss with a “yes sir,” sat there, eyes wide preparing for the worst when Bossman said “I want you to go home.” Bossman wasn’t firing him; Bossman wanted him to take his time to study. He promised to pay his salary and for his lesson fees, without Ibrahim having to come to work, stay up all night, blue WASSC book in hand, trying to study with drifting eyelids, all while listening to the sounds of the night, thieves not being his biggest concern. Ibrahim, who now has a better chance at making something of himself because now he can actually sleep adequately, study effectively, and generate income, things so basic, is the one who brought the single tear to my eye on this night in Freetown. The only difference between a boy like Ibrahim and say my little brother for example, is that my parents somehow made it to the west, hustled, worked odd jobs for status, lots of 12-hour shifts to afford us comforts, and ended up in the right place.  People would say: you are so blessed to have had this opportunity. Another might say to him: you are so blessed to have gone to school, to have income, to have survived. Blessings, you see, are relative.


 Den say salone nah di only place usai u get for take three modes of transportation for reach di capital city: plane, car, and boat-all in one journey. The truth is, it’s all worth the hassle.  What awaits us on the other side of the journey is the warmth of a place we call home: fry fish wit casada brade, plantain, akara and peteteh, with gravy, roasted peppeh chicken, cassava leaves made over a coal fire in the yard with palm oil, white okra and fufu. Obiata if you nah Fourah Bay J. Vimto. Malta and ginger beer that your aunty’s friend has brought for you. And above all, the familiarity of a people that remind us of our roots. I would do it over and over and over again if God wills me to do just that.


The networks, the potential partnerships, envisioning myself being a part of the expat community, or the diaspora,excitement to plan events---I just saw myself in a way that says I could do this in the future. Who’s to say when this will actually happen? That’s what makes this an odyssey of the heart; one never can really tell how love will end for there is so much uncertainty.





Monday, September 23, 2013

Vibrant Livin', Lovin' Via Argentina


The seat of cute little coffee shops, authentic cuisine from immigrant populations, and happy hour/lunch specials with boards luring customers in for deals. It is reminiscent of my favorite US city, (outside of my home city), Miami. The boards on the storefront telling you about today’s special or their restaurant’s specialty, the old men with big bellies smoking Cuban cigars, the young professionals enjoying a drink after a “hard day’s work,” the soccer fanatics watching Panama versus X, the wanderers like me. All of those things make Via Argentina an exciting place and my newest home in Panama City. It’s poppin’. 
arepas will be the death of my shape, lol.
sugar daddy belly

I can remember living in a space that I dreaded. That was back in college at Towson Run Apartments. Not sure if it was the time in my life and what the space represented, or if it was merely just the space that I had an issue with. But I seriously remember how scared I was to be there, especially alone. Something about that place just didn’t sit right with me then. I have learned in my life that my home, place of residence and certain rooms inspire different things for me. So forever neighborhoods, apartments, homes, flowers, plants, spaces, rooms, ambiance will always be something I take into deep consideration as I travel from place to place.

One year ago when I moved to Panama (le sigh…it’s been over a year already), I had noooo idea where I would live. I imagined living a little more low-key than I actually did; I had no expectation of living in a high rise in the city. In fact I thought I might just get a room in some older melon-painted apartment building and not have wi-fi, and not be in touch with my friends and family. When I arrived to Panama however, I saw that my living would be a little more uppity than I expected. Not exactly bougie, but just more than I anticipated.

I canvassed my new co-workers about areas that were close to my job in Paitilla. They told me I could live in San Francisco, Obarrio, Bella Vista, and a few other little pockets. I visited two apartments in San Francisco and one place in Cangrejo, which is a part of Bella Vista. Although people had informed me that El Cangrejo was a cool place to live because it was highly populated by foreigners, I desired to live amongst Panamanians, so I opted to for a room in an apartment with a nice view in San Francisco. (This failed because San Francisco was highly residential and there were few spaces for interaction with Panamanians or the local community.)

As time went on I began to spend more and more time at my friend’s apartment in Cangrejo. (Yes, the same Cangrejo that I once turned my nose down on because too many foreigners lived there, lol.)

And just like your typical boy/girl next-door love story, (the kind where you meet the guy and don’t like him at first because he is not your type), I fell in love---madly, deeply, head-over-heels in love with Via Argentina. I vowed to find a place there to live within my budget. I searched in November. I sort of searched in December. Couldn’t do it in January. Forgot about it in February. Revisited the idea in March. Couldn’t afford it in April. Got too comfortable in May. Moved out in June. Summer in the DMV. Returned in August. Went back on the search and…

can you see the glow of love? :)
A year later, I am now one of the expats living, and I mean living that street. I am motivated by the hustle and bustle of the trendy area. I meet and chat with people that I run into as a I stroll.  I feel empowered by the fact that I can just walk outside of my building to Fruteria Mimi and buy one avocado, one plantain, coconut water, and a piece of chocolate all for $3.00. Gone are the days where I would be lugging my week’s groceries from the neighborhood grocery store, sweat dripping, dreading the fact that if I forgot something I would have to walk back. Gone are the days where I would postulate taking a taxi back to my apartment after grocery shopping but end up walking. Now my days are filled with ideas about what I want to eat daily---and the best part of it, I can literally just hurry down the steps and go to the Fruteria or Casa de Carne if I need something that goes beyond the scope of your local mini market.

For the days when I don’t feel like cooking a full meal for myself, [which the frequency of these days has been increasing steadily], I can float down Via Argentina and peruse the menus while I wait for my palate to jump at the idea of a particular taste. On lazy days, I opt for an imported Hass avocado and a French baguette. J

Flip flops, $5.00, ID in-hand, I breeze down Via Argentina in my flowy skirts. Midriffs, braids caressing my waistline, I feel liberated; feels good to be the new girl on the block. 

Monday, December 3, 2012

Walking the Fine Line




I am well aware that the concept of the haves and the have nots exists all over the world. Yet, the prevalence of classism that I have personally experienced since I have arrived in Panama is absolutely absurd. I don't think I have ever thought about class soooo much before coming here. Could be because I spend almost all of my week with professionals and wealthy expats wanting to learn English. I think so.

somewhere around where the haves live
You see here in Panama, there are two lovely words that describe the disparities that exist in the city. And people are constantly reminding you of what is what.  Call it what you may, but I find them both rather annoying for several reasons. ‘Raka Taka,’ which is an equivalent of describing someone that might be called hood or ghetto and ‘YeiYei,’ which is the equivalent of describing the money people and the ‘bougie lifestyle.’

Allow me to explore my experience a bit more with you…

My morning class had warned me that certain things were raka taka in Panama. When I asked what raka taka was they all contributed to explain things that could were considered raka taka. My dear God, I can’t even begin to list these things on this blog; I would probably have to check many of the qualifications off for myself, lol. In a nutshell, they said it was low class…

I was still feeling things out then so I didn't form an opinion on the term. I was only taking mental notes at this point. Just mental notes.

Once as I tutored a student who was trying to pass an English exam, he asked about my social life. Admittedly, I told him that I hadn't really started going out much as I was still figuring things out and getting settled. He then proceeded to tell me which clubs to go to and which clubs not to go to, noting that one club in particular [which will remain unnamed] used to be really nice, but has since lessened in quality since now it is frequented by the "low class." He said "Oh no, teacher. Don’t go there it's low class." Mental note to self: explore what he meant by that, although I think I had an idea of exactly what he meant. I had checked out that same club just a few days back and it was pretty cool. I digged the music and could see myself going back.

Or like two weeks ago when one of my students pulled out a map and proceeded to delineate a line between where the rich people lived in the city and where the rich people did not live in the city. She assumed that I lived within those lines. She was SO excited about the discovery of this map.

Raka beach? lol. just the BEACH!
Finally, the other day as I was sitting in the teachers lounge before class, two teachers discussed weekend plans. One suggested a beach and then the other quickly surmised that the beach might not be relaxing. When I asked why not, he indicated that it wouldn't be relaxing because it was a raka-taka kind of beach and that while you try to relax, someone might come right next to your sand space and start blastin’ reggaeton. WOW. So I tried to hold it in, but that had been my breaking point.

1. So a beach that is raka cannot be relaxing.
2. Only rakas listen to Reggaeton and in fact, at the beach, they will surely invade your private space with it. That’s just what rakas do. (I am sure he meant Plena, which is Panamanian reggae and pretty darn awesome!)

Okay. When the other teacher asked what raka meant, he said that it was the Panamanian equivalent to the American term "white trash." I argued that it was everything that the money havin’ Panamanians and expats considered trash...not just white.

The room got tense. I was tense. I had reached my breaking point with this.
walking contrast. literally and figuratively
Almost four months into living here in Panama and I now realize why I am having such a hard time dealing with the constant usage of these words. The use of these words aside from the fact that it attempts to clearly delineate two social classes, makes a person feel like they have to choose what to do to stay clearly within one of these groups and steer far away from the other. Secondly, aside from the fact that I have always considered myself a well-rounded person, it is always evident that in Panama the activities that have made me feel the most connected to Panamanian people and culture are those that people might consider raka taka or frown upon. I believe in getting into the people, delving into the culture, mingling, and being a part of the experience. I didn’t come all the way to Panama to hang out at the Hard Rock hotel that is reminiscent of every Hard Rock hotel in the states. I didn’t come to Panama to mingle with people in a bar that is frequented by people who are other teachers, backpackers, expats, etc. I can do that stuff every once in a while. But I came to Panama to be in Panama. I came here to live and experience a culture outside of my own upbringing and to really feel like I am traveling. I did not come to Panama to stay in my comfort zone or do things that are modeled after bar, clubs, and restaurants in US cities. Take me to the real Panama. Take me to get empanadas and chicha* for $1.00. Take me on a $0.25 bus ride on the Diablo Rojo*. Take me to Avenida B to bargain shop and have raspao*. Take me to Mercado de Mariscos* where I can have ceviche for $3.00 and kick it with the locals. Take me to my homegirl’s house where I can meet other real people and 'parquiar'* like my Panamanians say. Let me here Plena, Reggaeton, Reggae, Bachata, Salsa, anything that screams foreign! I want it all…and if that means raca taca, then so be it. Let my standard Spanish be a must and let me pick up the local version of Panamanian Spanish ‘Que Xopaaaaa?’* Lol. Love it.

ridin' the Diablo Rojo to work.
Insert sound effect here:____________. “Teacher, you ride the Diablo Rojo? *Gasp* how is it?” Me: It is just fine; I am alive, well, and made it out to teach you English today…all for $.25 ;)

And so, I bask in joy as I tell them about how exciting my weekend activities were in the areas they would never venture, listening to the music that is very unrelaxing ;) and most importantly “low class.” I bask in letting them know that as their teacher of English and co worker, I am open to all. Perhaps then they will understand the ambiguity of a person that is the English teacher, Bintu Musa.

a sister sent this to me and i was moved by it and it fits here! credit: unknown
Above all, I am an open-minded and adaptable young woman that can fit in anywhere. Take me to an official gathering with diplomats and I will chop it up and impress all the same. I don’t walk around claiming to be from one of the richest counties in the US, nor do I rag on having lived in some of the poorest areas of this county. I can hold my own in any environment. The fact remains that in all that I do, I keep an open mind and invite all types of people, good people into my circle, and into my life. I travel to live the experience. One day I will do it for an official entity and I will make them proud by bridging gaps that often exist across cultures.

Signed Shamelessly,

a Sierra Leonean-American girl who just really wants to explore another culture sans the labels.


*Chicha- natural/local juice
*Diablo Rojo- local bus---meaning Red Devil, literally
*Raspao- a delicious type of shaved ice with your favorite flavor,creamer and condensed milk---yummy!
*Mercado de Mariscos- Seafood Market
*Parquiar- Panamanian slang for chillin'
*Que Xopa- Panamanian slang for 'what's up?'

NEXT! Surprise destination pending for this weekend. Please mark your calendars, pack your bags and most importantly, strap your seatbelts!*