Showing posts with label sierra leonean. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sierra leonean. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

On River Crossing and Love of Sierra Leone: Last Days


As the water from the Sierra Leone River (yes, it’s actually called that) rushed to my feet, I realized quickly that I would not leave this experience, without some sort of trauma. The ferry had not been docked appropriately and the tides were high. So while we had just run trailing the mob of men that held our suitcases above their heads, we were now faced with treading in river water barefooted to enter the ferry in hopes of making it both dry and alive to our Brussels Flight. If this were a movie, this scene would have been filled with the type of music symphony they play when there is chaos going on and the immediate future is uncertain. Before I had the chance to protest, a young man scooped me up, slumped me over his shoulder and ran up the ramp with me. Who was I to complain; I had been sliding down the ramp while attempting to walk up with my black, Old Navy thong sandals, that apparently weren’t made for ferry catching attempts in Sierra Leone. When he put me down and extended his hand, waiting for me to pull out Leones, because “nah e tote me kam up,” I realized that I was remiss in one important factor when travelling in Sierra Leone. Ah nor been get ‘small tin,’ for gi, which translates to small thing, which are tips you give to people along the way as bribery or for general assistance. I had given all of my Leones away to my cousins figuring they would make better use of it, than I would in Panama. I imagined that he damned me all the way down, the narrow, winding, metal steps of the ferry. Even though, I gave him a remark that was laced with my general frustration of the country’s situation, I felt a deep sense of effed-up-ness; I was overwhelmed. 

---As if the last few days hadn’t been emotionally jarring enough for me just preparing to leave, there was the long a%&$^%# ride to East End, which us West Enders dread. There was the traffic where my mom and aunt complained about the lawlessness of the people. There were the liberal attempts I made to justify why there was such lawlessness and thieves. There were the memories of my mother and aunt as we passed Bishop Johnson Memorial School, where they attended. There were the comments about how poor the roads were, how they used to be able to walk around with their heels from end to end. These damn roads in modern day post-war Freetown, don’t allow for that, they grieved. They saw it and rebuked it with a sense of disgust. I saw it from the lens of a future development worker, of a liberal-minded and Western-educated, Sierra Leonean enthusiast. I saw the possibilities. But that’s that. As I write this even, I realize that my lens is different. That my mom or aunt, or many people can’t understand why I would be willing to leave all of my comforts to go and work and live in sweet Sierra Leone. I would simply tell them, it’s my journey. It’s my odyssey, and this is an affair of the heart. Our sweet Sierra Leone awaits us. If not us, then who? 


In my last days in Freetown, besides the East End experience, there was Ibrahim. Ibrahim who touched my heart in an uncanny way for someone who doesn’t say much.  Ibrahim who wore his hood from his oversized jacket to protect himself and soul from the harsh, dry Harmattan breeze. Ibrahim who never showed late up to his nighttime security guard post in his boss’ compound. Ibrahim who takes care of his two brothers after his older siblings died. Ibrahim who watches for any potential risks to the compound with his WASSCE (West African Senior Secondary School Certificate Examination) study guide in hand. Ibrahim who needs to pass this test with flying colors so that he can have any chance at providing a better life for his nephews now turned sons. Ibrahim who pays his own lesson fees for extra practice, feeds his nephews before himself, takes care of them before getting his rest and studies when he should be sleeping during the day. Ibrahim who we told to come upstairs. Ibrahim became the security guard who was afraid when summoned by his boss. A sometimes arrogant, mess-with-your-mind type of boss, but a boss who recognized the struggle, because he lived through it and never forgets where he came from type of boss. Ibrahim who didn’t know what to expect, walked up the steps and took his seat on the balcony that extended above his post. Ibrahim who answers his boss with a “yes sir,” sat there, eyes wide preparing for the worst when Bossman said “I want you to go home.” Bossman wasn’t firing him; Bossman wanted him to take his time to study. He promised to pay his salary and for his lesson fees, without Ibrahim having to come to work, stay up all night, blue WASSC book in hand, trying to study with drifting eyelids, all while listening to the sounds of the night, thieves not being his biggest concern. Ibrahim, who now has a better chance at making something of himself because now he can actually sleep adequately, study effectively, and generate income, things so basic, is the one who brought the single tear to my eye on this night in Freetown. The only difference between a boy like Ibrahim and say my little brother for example, is that my parents somehow made it to the west, hustled, worked odd jobs for status, lots of 12-hour shifts to afford us comforts, and ended up in the right place.  People would say: you are so blessed to have had this opportunity. Another might say to him: you are so blessed to have gone to school, to have income, to have survived. Blessings, you see, are relative.


 Den say salone nah di only place usai u get for take three modes of transportation for reach di capital city: plane, car, and boat-all in one journey. The truth is, it’s all worth the hassle.  What awaits us on the other side of the journey is the warmth of a place we call home: fry fish wit casada brade, plantain, akara and peteteh, with gravy, roasted peppeh chicken, cassava leaves made over a coal fire in the yard with palm oil, white okra and fufu. Obiata if you nah Fourah Bay J. Vimto. Malta and ginger beer that your aunty’s friend has brought for you. And above all, the familiarity of a people that remind us of our roots. I would do it over and over and over again if God wills me to do just that.


The networks, the potential partnerships, envisioning myself being a part of the expat community, or the diaspora,excitement to plan events---I just saw myself in a way that says I could do this in the future. Who’s to say when this will actually happen? That’s what makes this an odyssey of the heart; one never can really tell how love will end for there is so much uncertainty.





Saturday, November 10, 2012

Sun, Sizzla, and Sand


up close and personal

So this past weekend Panama celebrated its independence from Colombia. I specify that because apparently they celebrate a few more independences this month. Basically, November in Panama is one big...beach party! Who am I to complain?

Not to mention it only cost $3.00 to get to the beaches on the Pacific side, which is where I spent my weekend. Something about knowing that I can see so much for so little is empowering. I get excited about the thought.

By now many of you have seen my picture with the phenomenal reggae artist that is Sizzla! Before I even knew when Panama's holiday was, I knew I would be at the concert. Even had my outfit planned. And of course I didn't get my ticket until two days before, haha. Typical.

Anyway, at the last minute I was convinced to head to the beach on Friday night instead of early Saturday morning as I had planned, in order to beat the traffic. Usually, I like to think things out a bit more, but I said whatever; this is all about adventure and experience, right? I was already packed so I did a quick mental checklist and went outside to catch a taxi to the bus terminal. There was only one problem and one problem only; I left after 9 and the last bus was leaving to Gorgona at 9:30. But like the 'blessing pikin' that I am, I made it (despite the taxi driver driving intentionally slow after I indicated that I was in a rush.) Either he was scared of going above the speed limit or he wanted to prolong our ride together. Either way I was annoyed.
from my 'bus'

I rushed to the bus---well, little minivan type of thing. It’s what we call ‘podahpodah’ in Sierra Leone, a ‘minibus’ in Guyana, or a ‘trhttp://trotrodiaries.tumblr.com/otro’ in Ghana. I was extremely close to this one guy who was adamant about sharing his 44th birthday plans with me. He told me about everything from his family to his birthday outfit. 

I finally arrived to the the town of Gorgona and you could feel the calm before the storm; it was clear that the next day would be a day of partying!

sunny days

hidin' out under the cliff catching waves
Saturday came quickly and I checked into a little house owned by a surfer guy in a beach town called El Palmar. This particular beach is frequented by many surfers because of the waves. There is also a surf school. I enjoyed the waves and all, but I'll leave the surfing to the surfers :) I will admit that it felt good to have the waves take you with them.
hey there
beautiful rock structure

I enjoyed the beach a bit more with my homegirl, who is actually learning to surf. Then we got ready and headed out to make an impression---I mean to go to the Sizzla Concert. Yay for Sand and Sizzla. How much better does it get?

Oh wait, it gets better!

I managed to make my way into the VIP section, which basically meant I was free to go riiiiight up close to the front. I figured why shouldn't I be as close as possible to the stage? I will only see Sizzla in Panama once, right? 

Okay, the VIP scheme wasn't that easy. I paid $40 for my ticket which was general admission, but my friends paid $40 on the day of and they got a VIP ticket. I would have been okay with this if there wasnt such a bigggg difference. Like general admission was like being on the back of the bus and not by choice. And I definitely did not come all the way to Panama to be in the back. No, no, no. Not Bintu Mary.

Needless to say, I put on my DMV charm, walked up to the security guy and asked him what the price difference was so I could pay it. He directed me to the ticket booth. I asked them the same question. They told me to hold on. Luckily my friend Javi had a better idea. He would just hold my hand and cover it with his VIP wristband and we would walk right in. We tried it. It worked---or so we thought, until I saw the security guy walking towards me out of the corner of my eye. Lol okay #fail1.

We explained the situation to him. My friend told me to speak only English. That would help our story if I pretended to be a clueless American girl. Then somehow my friend asked the security guard where he was from...and u guessed it...they were both from the city of Colon. That was it; in less than five seconds, that security guard walked right back and we walked right into VIP without problem. Later we slipped him $3.00. Gotta love third world hookups.

passionate performer

feelin' his music
And with that, I was rest assured in the VIP section.

Next mission was to work my way up to the front! And center. And if you know me, then you know I succeeded. I mean go hard or go home. And home is far from here. ;)

sandy days
The experience, the VIP hustle and all was amazing. The stadium was basically a stage set on the beach. So my feet were in sand. All the more hippie/bohemian and I loved every minute of it. Even the fact that the generator kept going out was exciting for me. When the lights went out we could see the stars. I have never thought the sky looked so beautiful. When my crew complained about the lights going out, I reminded them that we were at a reggae concert in Central America on the beach, feet in sand, how many more times will we be able to have this opportunity? Better yet, how grateful should we be that we even have this opportunity?

I even took a nap right there on the sand until the lights came back on. This was my type of thing. Beach vibin’ and reggae vibin’.

everyone diggin' the vibe
Rastas, backpackers, Panamanians, and a Sierra Leonean American girl who once dreamed of beach concerts. All of us came from different places for one thing: music. For the love of Sizzla's music and to witness his art. Music, if nothing else, is truly a powerful means of bringing people together. I will always remember the day I was walking in Suriname, a small country in South America. A black Surinamese approached me selling cds; I asked him what the hottest song was right now. He started singing ‘Yori Yori. There I was, somewhere in South America, oceans apart from Nigeria and the hottest song in Suriname, was a song by a Nigerian group. At that moment, I realized this: music is a binding force. Music transcends borders and oceans. 

Remember! Never take off your seatbelt---you never know what's next on Bee's Backseat---stay tuned for this weekend's adventure!